Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Big Bend Revisited :: Cerro Castalon

Saturday, March 2nd - - In English, Cerro Castalon is called Castolon Peak. Whatever you call it, it dominates the landscape in the Castalon region in the southern realms of Big Bend National Park.





The southern view is the
most photogenic side of Cerro Castalon. As you drive in from the
north the peak appears from out of nowhere as you crest one of the
many hills. The road winds through the area with virtually no place
to pull off to get a picture.





On my way back from Elena Canyon, I
shot this through the front window, stopping in the middle of the
road. There wasn't much traffic... Shooting through the windshield
adds a greenish tint to photos so I converted it to black and white
and adjusted the contrast a little.





At the base of the peak, on the western side, is a pull-out. This too, is Cerro Castalon though it doesn't look quite so impressive from this vantage point... which just goes to show, you need to look at everything from different perspectives!



Rutland Round 7 - Whissendine to Braunston

With Marta. Started grey and drizzly, but after Langham (11 am) it cleared up for the rest of the day. Still some mud underfoot, views good. 11.7 miles approx. A few hilly bits.





We set off from Whissendine around 9 30, and walked up past the church, turning right on to Foxhills, and following the road round as far as Number 21. The footpath runs alongside this house to a field, where we turned left. There's a gateway on to the the road, but the path turns right and follows the hedge for a short distance before joining the road at a stile. We turned right along the road as far as a left hand bend. At this point we continued straight ahead, on a bridleway leading to Langham.



By now we were both wearing waterproofs as the drizzle persisted. The hedge was on our left for a while, but at the summit of the track it changed to being on our right. The views here are said to be excellent, but the mizzle made them a little hazy today. We used John Williams' book and the OS map and found the path without problem. At one or two points along the way the waymarks have faded or become overgrown.



There is a junction of bridleways at the end of the field, and here we turned right, with the hedge on our left. In the next field the path goes over a stile after a gap in the hedge on the lef. We followed the path alongside a deep ditch on our left. We crossed a plank bridge and then turned right when a hedge blocked the way, turning left over a briidge in a short while cutting off the corner of a field before following the hedge and waymarkers to reach Manor Lane in Langham, via a stile.



We turned right then left into Orchard Road, then at the end of Orchard Road, right then left into Bridge Street. Just after the bridge we turned right before the Noel Arms.




5 stars for the welcome coffee!





Well, to be truthful we were delighted to be able to buy an early coffee in the pub - the landlord took pity on our drowned rat appearance.












Ms Wet Anorak ?








The rain gods smiled on us and by the time we left twenty minutes later the rain had stopped.









At the end of Church Street we crossed the main road, turned right for a short distance before taking the bridleway towards Braunston, which leads off to the left. The path climbs up hill following the left hand hedge and turning right to walk around the small wood near Mill Hill.




At the end of the wood we turned slightly right and continued up to Manor Lane, a small road which leads into Barleythorpe.



Rutland Water in the distance


We walked down into Barleythorpe, and to the road, then turned right, along a pavement until a stile led into a playing field on our right. After this we walked along the edge of Catmose College, and through Rutland Care Village, before coming out close to the level crossing near Oakham Station.





We had our lunch stop at the Castle Café in Oakham - a very good broccoli and stilton soup. It was still a little cool and damp for sitting out, so we went inside.




Outside the Castle Café, Oakham

We left Oakham on the road towards Uppingham and Kettering.




Floral peacock




Swooning Bridge, from where you would once have seen the gallows at the top of the hill.

Shortly after the bridge our path turned off to the left towards Egleton, crossing muddy fields which could have been a lot worse! Of course, since the 2000 edition of the booklet, and the publication of my OS map, the bypass has been built. It's on the newer maps, and doesn't complicate the route.



Through Egleton, we turned right along the road to the A 6003. We crossed over the road and then the railway line to a path which leads up hill with a hedge on the left.







At the second gateway we cut across the field slightly, joining a track past Brooke Covert East. Soon after this the track bears right, but we took the route through a gate to the left. The path goes downhill over a small bridge and past Bridge Farm into Brooke.




Brooke Church

We walked through Brooke, turning right at the junction. We passed some earthworks on our right, and a dovecote in the grounds of Brooke Priory - a house on the site of a 12th century priory.




Earthworks at Brooke




The dovecote

We took a footpath in the field opposite the priory, and walked alongside the stream, the Gwash. After a few hundred yards the path crosses a footbridge to a bridleway. We went across the bridleway through a gateway and over a field diagonally tot he left hand hedge. The path is clearly marked into Braunston.




The last few steps of the Rutland Round






with a little more decorum






and a sense of achievement.

And here is Braunston Church again




65 miles of very enjoyable walking, done on seven separate days.









A couple of pics from a walk in the same area in April

Sunday, December 28, 2008

On My Way... to Alaska

By the time you read this I should be in Canada on the long road to Alaska! Normally I don't post my itinerary in advance, but I'm going to take a chance and do so now.

The basic route is as follows (double-click on image for a larger version):

I will be entering Canada on Route 93 and following it north to Banff National Park and on to Jasper. On Route 16 north of Jasper I'll turn off on Highway 40, which cuts across to Grande Prairie (about 900 miles).

From Grande Prairie I'll go west to Dawson Creek, which is “Mile 0” of the Alaska Highway and take it to the official end of the road, which is Delta Junction, Alaska (another 1,390 miles).

I have no idea what internet access there will be along the way. I've been told that many campgrounds have wifi – I can only hope that they do! I'll check-in with at least a short post whenever possible...

Friday, December 26, 2008

Tuffee & Me

This is me and my dog, Tuffee taking a break in our very slow, windy walk along the first 100 yards or so of the trail down from Sandia Crest.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Lunch in Amsterdam Oud-West with the boys and a reminder about customer service in the Netherlands

It has been almost a year since Herr Philippe and I met up for dinner at Trouw Restaurantin Amsterdam. I can still recall the lovely dinner we had where I ordered this raw vegetable plate with glorious anchovies sauce on the side. That was sooooooooo good, I can still remember vividly how it tasted.







Anyway, it was time to meet up again so we decided to have lunch, together with his friend who just arrived from Orlando, USA. Let’s call him Mr. Orlando.



Café Bax Lunch



We had lunch at Café Bax in Amsterdam Oud-West, nearby where Herr Philippe lives. They both ordered the typically Dutch sandwich meal—Uitsmijter which reminds me of the Francesinha sandwich in Porto except that the uitsmijter is not swimming in tomato and beer sauce. I went for the goat’s cheese salad which was divine.









My goat cheese salad. 4 stars out of 5.







The Dutch uitsmijter - sandwich bread with ham or bacon and sunny side up eggs and melted Gouda cheese on top.









The cool painted toilet doors. Orlando kept telling us that he felt like someone is watching him. Yes my dear, Prince Claus and Queen Bea are watching you! And the bar man as well, so behave =)







Customer service you say?



Honestly, I did not expect for the food to be good here but it was pretty good! Mr. Orlando and Her Philippe on the other hand complained about their egg yolks. They want it fully cooked and Philippe even had to remind the waiter that it should be well cooked (in Dutch: gaar, doorgekookt which I even repeated to the waiter as well), but still, the eggs came back half cooked, which most people I understand prefer them this way. Well I do anyway.



So the eggs were returned to the kitchen... and when they came back for the second time around they were still soft and watery????



I told Mr. Orlando that I have given up the customer service fight in the Netherlands. The Dutch, and let me just generalise—Europeans, have a different idea of customer service. It really has nothing to do with how customer service is observed in America, in Asia and in other parts of the globe. Our idea of customer service does not exist here.



In Europe, you do not demand from a waiter or ask favours, you just order. OK? Because if you do, you will just end up frustrated, and life is too short and lovely to nitpick about this (at least in my opinion).



This is also the reason why gratuities are not very popular here. The waiters do not work for tips, they are paid with a salary, just like you and me working for a company, and with benefits as well.



Coffee, tea and moi



After lunch we went back to Philippe’s flat for some strong espresso, cappuccino and tea. And more chatting.









They are leaving for Italy (Pisa – Florence – Cinque Terre – Portovenere – Santa Margherita Ligure – Portofino) and Philippe wanted to know if I can help him with tips about this trip since I have been there several years ago. Well, I drafted for them the itinerary I just mentioned =)



The boys are now in Bella Italia and are enjoying much the Ligurian coast!



A lovely lunch again in Amsterdam, with lovely friends.



Visit Period: April

Destination: Amsterdam Oud-West, The Netherlands


Lebanon, PA to Williamsburg, VA

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger (1939)

The 30th annual reunion of the Phend family was held at the Nappanee Community park sun. Aug 27 - 1939

There were 46 present all seemed to enjoy the dinner very much.

Meeting called to order by president Henry Phend.

Election of officers was then in order. Motion made & 2d that the same president be retained for the next year. Motion carried. Motion made and 2d that F. A. Wehrly act as Sec & Treas. Motion carried.

Motion made & 2d that Rob't & Evelyn Bechtel act as entertainment comm..

Coll[ection] was then taken amounting to

[page 2]
Coll $3.11
Bal of .87
[balance] 3.98
Park fee 2.60
Sec exp. .87
Bal. 1.11

There being no further business, meeting then adj[ourned] until next year.

F. A. Wehrly S & T. Protem.



The Phend-Fisher families gathered for a reunion in Northern Indiana almost annually from 1909 until 1943. The events of the day were recorded in an old ledger book. Spelling has been retained as it was in the original though some punctuation and paragraph breaks have been added. To view all articles in this series click on the "Phend-Fisher Reunion Ledger" label at the bottom of this post.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Expanding Comfort Zones

Over the past couple of weeks I've had things to do in downtown Boston and the Financial District, so I have been going there more than usual. As I cycle through this dense urban area, my company includes mainly bumper-to-bumper car traffic and bike messengers weaving through it. It was a hot afternoon and I was waiting in the left lane at a red light - a black SUV behind me and a gray pick-up truck on my right - when it suddenly occurred to me: I was quite comfortable. Any moment now, the light would turn green and I would make a left turn in a way that would not conflict with oncoming vehicles. The awareness of this was not one of nervous anticipation, but one of calm preparedness. Perhaps I am no longer quite the "beginner" I still tend to think of myself as being.

I say all of this not to brag (and I am sure many would mock the idea of cycling in downtown Boston as any sort of accomplishment), but to point out that the "baby steps" principle really does work if you are patient and allow yourself to expand your comfort zone at your own pace. Last summer, I wrote this post about overcoming my anxieties and cycling outside my immediate neighborhood. Now those anxieties seem in the distant past, as I cycle all over greater Boston and beyond.

Of course the city's ever-expanding bicycle infrastructure helps as well. Not so much because the bike lanes are spectacular (note the amount of debris on the left and how close the car gets on the right), but because the sheer act of painting all sorts of bicycle signifiers seems to make drivers more aware of cyclists' existence in general. Overall, conditions for cyclists are improving here.

If I wanted to cross the river to Boston last year, I would cycle along the Charles River Trail at a snail's pace. Now I just go right on the roads and cross the main city bridges. It takes 15-20 minutes to get where I need to be, and I no longer feel anxious to cycle in this manner. I make no secret of the fact that I am a neurotic wimp with a poor sense of balance. So, at the risk of perpetuating a cliché: "If I can do it, anybody can." Choose a bicycle you love, take it one neighborhood at a time, and expand your comfort zone.

Just be sure to make way for ducklings...

And don't tease the swans!

The Road Home


All to soon my visit to Oregon and Washington has come to an end. My plane ticket says that it is the day to fly back to New Mexico, so I guess I will have to go. If I will let myself admit it I am getting a bit homesick for Lee, the horses, dogs and cats so I left so far behind. And although I don't want to admit it to my sister, and tour guide, sometimes the sight of so much green can be scary. I noticed when I walked out this morning to sit on her back porch and see if there were any deer watching that the ring of trees that surrounded her home looked as if they were invading my - well shall we call it 'my space'. I love trees, but here they make it so that you can't 'see'. At my home on the desert you can 'see' for miles on end. And I miss that.

Labor Day


It's Labor Day Weekend. A big holiday here in the USA.
Have fun but be safe.

Snow and Rim Brakes, Derailleurs, Etc.

Snowy Streets, Cambridge MA
There are good reasons to recommend snow-proof bikes for winter cycling: powdercoat, hub brakes, internal gearing, single speed fixed. However, some prefer to stick with a regular bike through the winter, eitherforspeed, economy or other reasons. That is my situation right now, and so far even limited riding in the snow has given me a pretty good showcase of things to watch out for. Here are some of them:



Snow and rim brakes:

This is an important one for safety. If you ride through snow and it builds up on your wheel rim, you can lose braking power on a bike with rim brakes. After riding through snow, I try to remove it from the front rim as soon as I notice any build-up, before it has a chance to freeze. This can be done fairly quickly: First I bounce the front wheel forcefully, then spin it as I wipe the snow off with a gloved hand.



Snow and the derailleur:

If your bike has derailleur gearing and you get the derailleur covered in snow, it can solidify and impair shifting. I was surprised to see how quickly snow can build up and freeze around that area; I guess there are a lot of convenient nooks and crannies for it to get into. To remove it, I shake off the rear wheel and free the derailleur from buildup with gloved fingers. I also try to stay in a low-ish gear in case the shifting goes. I would be reluctant to leave a derailleur-geared bike locked up outdoors in the snow for any length of time without some sort of cover.



Fender clearance:

This is not a popular opinion to have in transportation cycling circles, but fenders can be a pain. Unless there is a generous (as in vintage 3-speed/ Dutch bike type of generous) amount of clearance between the fender and tire, snow can get in there and does not always want to come out. If enough snow builds up, it can slow down the wheel's rotation or even bring it to a halt. I have experienced this on a couple of bikes now (granted, after intentionally riding them through snow for fun), bikes with what is considered good fender clearance for paved and dirt road riding in normal weather. Once snow gets between the tire and fender, it can be fairly difficult to remove on the road in cold temperatures; it doesn't want to be coaxed out. Better to avoid riding through soft snow in the first place.





Salt and rust:

Bicycles that are finished with anything but the hardiest powdercoat are susceptible to rust from the salted winter streets. The damage starts out as cosmetic - which is in itself sad if you have a nice bike -and can grow to become structural over time. I wipe my bike down after every ride on salted roads to avoid this. I would not leave a delicately finished bike outdoors in the winter for any significant length of time.



While not ideal, it is not impossible to ride a liquid painted, derailleur-geared bike with rim brakes and less than generous fender clearances in the snow, if you take care to watch for build-up en route and if you maintain the bike afterward. Storing such a bike outdoors in the snow is more problematic. Your bike parking situation at home and work could be the determining factor in whether going without a winter-proof bike is doable.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Those Pennsylvania Ancestors...

Back in March, when "The Journey" came to an official end, I mentioned there were several research trips that I wanted to take, one of which was to Pennsylvania.When I went to Pittsburgh to attend GRIP in July, I thought about staying the following week for research. But I hadn't really taken the time to properly prepare and returned to Indiana instead.



Coming up, the second week of September, I'm planning on meeting a friend at Acadia National Park in Maine for a week. I thought perhaps I could do a little research on the way, but that's probably not going to happen since, due to other commitments, I can't leave here until the 5th. So maybe, I can spend some time in Pennsylvania afterward.



Anyway, I started looking at those Pennsylvania ancestors, most of whom are "Pennsylvania Dutch" with the odd migrant from Connecticut (Sprague) and several Scotch-Irish (Dunfee & Hazlett) that came in through Maryland.



I made a list of the known ancestors and several "persons of interest" noting where they had lived and when. Then decided to map it out to visually "see" the various locations. I had done something similar back in .., but with a map that included all of the eastern states. Comparing this map to the earlier one shows that more ancestors have been found in Pennsylvania, more than I thought.






Harrisburg, the state capital of Pennsylvania, is in Dauphin County.

Double-click on the image to view a larger version.


It's a bit overwhelming when I think about researching in all of these locations! Back in 1986, on-site research was done in Fayette, Westmoreland, Adams, and York counties. And, of course, quite a few records were found on several visits to Salt Lake City last year. Perhaps I should just spend what time I have at the State Archives in Harrisburg?



Research plans for some of the ancestors are in progress - listing what is known about them, the documents that I already have, and what I'd like to find. Of course, the amount of information known varies considerably, dependent mostly upon how much research time has been devoted to them in the past.



Below is the list of locations and ancestors (or persons of interest) in Pennsylvania. Some people are listed in multiple counties. Alexander, Schuder, Sprague and Stoever are in my Dad's lineage. All others are in Mom's lines. Some of them I don't know where they were prior to where I found them. And, of course, there are the ancestors that were "born in Pennsylvania" with locations unknown, such as James Neal, Peter Wise and Conrad Stem...The number in front of the county name refers to the numbers on the map, going from the east side of the state to the west side.



1 - Northampton (part of Bucks until 1752)


  • Bayer/Boyer, Adam - Williams Twp (1733-1754)

  • Brinker, Andreas & Regula Herter - Lower Saucon (1735-1764)

  • Brinker, Ulrich (married Apolonia Bayer/Boyer, d/o of Adam) - Lower Saucon (1735-1785)

  • Brinker, Andrew (With wife Barbara Lederman, moved to Westmoreland shortly after marriage in 1785.) Lower Saucon (1760-1785)


2 - Lehigh (Philadelphia until 1758, Northampton until 1812)


  • Williams (Willems), Johannes & Margaretha - Whitehall - (1736-????)

  • Williams (Willems), Thomas [Daughter Margaret married George Yerion about 1770. Both families to Westmoreland by 1785.] - Whitehall - (1736-1785)


3 - Lehigh (Philadelphia until 1758, Northampton until 1812)


  • Yerion (Jerian), Mathias - Lynn - (1732-1761)


4 - Montgomery (Philadelphia until 1784)


  • Hoffman, Burckhard [Person of Interest] - Upper Hanover - (1727-1770)

  • Hoffman, Michael - Upper Hanover - (mid 1700s)


5 - Berks (Philadelphia until 1752)


  • Hoffman, Michael - Douglas - (mid 1700s)


6 - Berks (Philadelphia until 1752)


  • Hoffman, Michael - Alsace - (died 1777)

  • Schädler, Dietrich [Person of Interest. Baptism sponsor of Dietrich Hoffman in July 1751.]

  • Schedler, Engel [Person of Interest. Did she marry "my" Michael Hoffman? Is she the mother of Dietrich Hoffman?] - (1740s-1780s)

  • Alter, Georg Henrich [Person of Interest. Possible father of Susanna Alder/Alter who married Dietrich Hoffman] - (1750s-1780s)


7 - Berks (Philadelphia until 1752)


  • Daniel/Daniels, Adam - Bethel - (1738-1777)

  • Forster, Wilhelm Georg (aka William Foster) md Magdalena Daniel in 1774 - Bethel - (1764-1780s)

  • Leatherman (Lederman), Jacob - Tulpehocken - (1740s-1762)

  • Leatherman (Lederman), Peter - Tulpehocken - (1740s-1801)

  • Leatherman, Barbara, d/o Peter md Andrew Brinker - Tulpehocken - (1785)


8 - Lebanon (Lancaster until 1785, Dauphin until 1813)


  • Stoever, John Caspar III - Bethel - (1785-1805 to Ohio)


9 - Lebanon (Lancaster until 1785, Dauphin until 1813)


  • Stoever, John Caspar II - Lebanon - (1742-1779)


10 - Northumberland (Southern portion of county was part of Lancaster until 1772.)


  • Schuder, Nicolaus - Mahonoy & Washington - (1772-????)

  • Schuder, Christian & Christina Stoever - Mahonoy & Washington - (1772-1803 to Ohio)

  • Forster, Wilhelm Georg (aka William Foster) - Mahonoy - (1780s-1798 to Shenandoah, Virginia then Ohio about 1807)


11 - Lancaster (Chester until 1729)


  • Steinweg/Stoneroad, George -Lancaster - (1754-???? married Veronica Danner 1763)

  • Danner/Tanner, Veronica - Lancaster - (married George Steinweg 1763)


12 - Lancaster (Chester until 1729. In 1853, part of Martic where the Brubakers had lived became Providence Township)


  • Brubaker, Hans Jacob 1st - Martic - (1730-1755)

  • Brubaker, Hans Jacob 2nd - Martic - (1730-1802)

  • Brubaker, Hans Jacob 3rd - Martic - (about 1760-1817. Married Elizabeth Steinweg about 1788, to Ohio about 1817.)


13 - York (Lancaster until 1749)


  • Berlin, Jacob & Ann Margaretha Euler - Codorus - (1740s)


14 - Adams (York until 1800)


  • Berlin, Jacob & Ann Margaretha Euler - Berwick - (1750-1790)

  • Berlin, Frederick Sr. - Berwick & Hamilton - (1750-1836) - Susan [Wagner ?]

  • Berlin, Frederick Jr. - Berwick & Hamilton - (1771-1843) - married Juliana [Dietzler ?]

  • [Dietzler ?], Juliana -

  • [Wagner ?], Susan -


15 - Adams (York until 1800)


  • Rupert, John, Barbara [baptism of Eva 1787] - Latimore - (????-1787)


16 - Adams (York until 1800)


  • Dunfee, George & Mary - Cumberland - (1790-1800)

  • Dunfee, George & Mary - Liberty - (1800-1830)

  • Dunfee, James & Sophia (Hazlett) - Liberty - (1800-1830)

  • Hazlett, Jonathan & Elizabeth - Liberty - (1810-1830)


17 - Franklin (Cumberland until 1784)


  • Cow, Henery (aka Henry Coy) - Montgomery - (1790-1804)

  • Hoffman, Detrick (2 sons married daughters of Henry Coy) - Montgomery - (1790s-1804)


18 - Bedford (Cumberland until 1771)


  • Helm, Conrad - Bedford - (1804)


19 - Bedford (Cumberland until 1771)


  • Helm, Conrad - Londonderry - (1807-1811)


20 - Somerset (Cumberland until 1771, Bedford until 1795)


  • Stoever, John Caspar III - Milford - (1802-1805 to Ohio)


21 - Westmoreland (Cumberland until 1771, Bedford until 1773)


  • Yerion, George - Mount Pleasant - (1773-1804) - wife Margaretha Williams

  • Brinker, Andrew & Barbara Lederman - Mount Pleasant - (1785-1805)


22 - Fayette (Westmoreland until 1783)


  • Sisley, Lewis & Margaret Ellis - Washington - (1790-1826)

  • Stem, Conrad - Washington - (1820-1840s) - married Indiana Sisley before 1833, to Ohio before 1850. He was born "in Pennsylvania" in 1804.


23 - Washington (Westmoreland until 1781)


  • Ellis, James - Fallowfield - (1780-1803)

  • Ellis, Nathan Fallowfield - (1780-late 1790s to Ohio)


24 - Erie (Allegheny until 1800)


  • Sprague, Thomas Sr. - Springfield - (1800-1805) - Came from Connecticut, went to Montgomery County, Ohio.

  • Alexander, William - Springfield - (1800-1805 to Ohio) - Married Lucy Sprague.


Bucks, Philadelphia, and Dauphin counties are colored-in because they were the "parent" counties for the areas in which ancestors settled. Depending upon the time frame involved, research may be required in those counties.



I hesitated in posting this since it may turn out that I don't get to Pennsylvania for research this year, but thought I'd post it anyway since I spent so much time on it and also in the hopes of hearing from anyone researching these lines or with ties to these people - leave a comment below or send me an email at kinexxions "at" gmail "dot" com.