Cycling and Flying

As mentioned earlier, I am leaving for Europe again and will return at the end of the month. My schedule will be very hectic this time, so there will be less posting. I want to thank everybody for reading, for the friendly messages, and for the helpful advice. If you've sent me an email and I have not yet replied, I will get to it as soon as time permits.

For now, here are some more gratuitous shots from our velo-travels. Appropriately, on our last trip we watched the airplanes land on Castle Island in South Boston.

If you click to enlarge this picture, you can see the cluster of tiny white lights in the distance - the airplanes waiting their turn.

And there one goes - landing right over the water.

People say that cycling feels like flying. Well, maybe if you are the airplane, but certainly not if you are sitting in one. I would rather cycle than fly any day.

See you soon!

The "Fendi Abici Bike" in Vogue Magazine

A friend sent me this great scan from the June issue of American Vogue:



"Girls, go tell the groom that we've found the gift of all gifts to give his bride on the big day. (He does know that one's in order, right?) The Abici Amante Donna city bike now comes fitted with Fendi's luxest Selleria leather accessories. Seat, handles, thermos case, and GPS holder are all cut and sewn by hand. In front, the fully outfitted picnic basket -- which, you might tell him, doubles as a beauty case -- bears the house's signature stamp. There's also a splash catcher (he'll know this isn't its technical name, but "mudguard" is so unsexy) on the back wheel. The course of true love never ran more smoothly!"



The price of the Fendi Abici is $5,900 and the detachable travel case on the front rack is $975 extra.







This is a gorgeous bicycle and a lovely wedding gift, but is the Fendi version worth six times the price of the standard Abici Amante Donna? I guess that is a matter of personal choice and depends on how much you like Fendi. Personally, I'd rather keep the Brooks saddle. The travel case is rather nice though (any idea on the weight?).



[image from abici-italia.it]

Pictured above is the standard Abici Amante Donna in cream with original saddle and handles, and without dress guard, racks or thermos holder. I believe the cost is about $1,000 MSRP. Not being a fan of the rod brakes, I prefer Abici's Granturismo model. Still, the Amante is quite beautiful, and I think that Fendi had the right idea to add some dark warm contrasts to all that white.

Mount Erie ..

The original plan was to head to the desert for some climbing. But in a strange twist the weather was forecast to be better west of the mountains. So Sabrina and I changed our plans and headed to Mount Erie. The hope was to clip some bolts and maybe do a little top roping. We left Seattle around 7am and arrived near the top of Mount Erie around 8:45.

We were attempting to access the Powerline Crag and had some minor difficulty determining where to park. (Thankfully we brought two guidebooks with us.) Then we headed out on the trail in an attempt to find the crag. In typically Mount Erie fashion, we hiked too far over some sketchy terrain. We were only about 20' above a trail that looked level and should lead us back to the crag, but could not find a way down. We hiked back and eventually found the crag and our starting point for the day, False Impressions (5.8).

It was a bit chilly and Sabrina and I procrastinated before I decided to do the first lead. By this time, a man and a woman arrived and started on the route immediately to the right of False Impressions. I balked at the high first bolt and committing step out onto the route and handed the lead over to Sabrina. She balked a bit before she got going and she was on her way. She made her way smoothly through the first four bolts and then hung because of the pump of figuring out the next move. After getting back on the wall, she made quick work of the rest of the route. I followed the route, and found it more difficult than I probably would have on lead. I also took a direct start which eliminates the committing step out, but it means you are climbing for 10-12' before reaching the first bolt. Sabrina climbed it again on top rope and found it more difficult to follow as well.

Sabrina cleaning the anchors on False Impressions

A crowd had gathered by this point and there were now six other people in the area besides ourselves. So Sabrina and I headed to the east end of the crag to climb a few more bolted routes. This involved a scramble up to a ledge system which was somewhat precarious. Fortunately there was an anchor bolt that we anchored into as well as secured our backpacks to. One of the other parties also came up to the ledge and we negotiated routes.

I led the 5.8 Finishing Touch which I found easier than False Impressions. (Perhaps why one guidebook lists it as a 5.7+?) It was less steep and had some thin balance moves. Sabrina led it after me and found it more difficult. I followed her lead and we did an ill advised walk off to climber's right to get back. (We were using a natural anchor and the only rap anchor was being used by the other party.)

Sabrina on Finishing Touch

After our walking excursion, we set our sights on No Holds Barred (5.10a). I got the first lead and cruised up the easy section at the bottom to the second bolt. I paused for a long time attempting to unlock the moves above me all while my legs were getting pumped. I finally hung and attempted again. It wasn't working. I lowered off and rested my legs and then had back at it. This time I was successful as I had made a plan from the ground. I then fell repeatedly trying to figure out the next set of moves. Part of my issue was that I had not seen a critical hold for my right hand that was near the fourth bolt. After finding the hold I was able to move up and complete the route. Sabrina led it after me and had a short fall at one point and hung a bit at another point before completing the route. I tried it again on top rope without any issues.

Sabrina climbing No Holds Barred

At this point we contemplated what to do next. We knew we had to leave the immediate vicinity as there were no climbs left for us to do. Where we started in the morning had become crowded, and that was no longer an option either. So we were going to have to scramble down from the ledge to walk up and out. I decided that we should put our packs on and climb Finishing Touch again so we would be at the trail. Sabrina agreed if I would lead it. So I did. In the mid afternoon after a bit of climbing, the pack really affected my ability to climb. It made the 5.8 feel harder than the .10a we had just climbed. Near the top I avoided the crux of the route by traversing over to the final moves of No Holds Barred. I anchored to a tree and brought Sabrina up.

We debated briefly about going to another location to climb but Sabrina suggested we relax and enjoy the view. Being fairly tired and knowing the difficulties of getting to another crag on Erie, I agreed and we sat a bit on an outcropping enjoying the day before returning to the car to go home.

Glacier, Whitehorse and Three Fingers

Overall this was a great trip. It was nice to get out with Sabrina who I had been missing going out with. While the forecast was for "mostly cloudy" the day went from cold and overcast to sunny and warm. Short sleeves weather in the afternoon was welcomed by all. I felt I climbed well enough, but was hoping to climb better. I enjoyed all the routes we did, and would probably recommend them to others.

Why a double boot?

With reviews of the most popular double boots on the blogand more coming of similar models I think the use of double
boots might need some explanation again.



The majority of my alpine climbing has
been done in the Canadian Rockies in winter or in the Alaska Range in
spring.



In both places a good single boot and decent gaiter will get you
by, generally, in perfect conditions. The problems arise not in the perfect
conditions but in the exceptions both in the weather conditions and
temperatures. As important or maybe more import is the physical condition of the
climber.



Open bivy high on the North side of
Deborah May '76





Frostbite is not generally a cold issue
believe it or not but simply a physical exhaustion and dehydration issue of
climbers strung out in difficult conditions. Double boots are a reasonable
insurance policy to avoid a cold injury when you are dehydrated and exhausted
and still having to keep moving. Sounds pretty much like any worthwhile alpine
climb doesn't it?



While expensive, quality double boots are nothing
compared to the price of what even a short stint in the hospital from frostbite
and the resulting down time will cost you long term. Not to mention the
resulting cold sensitivity that will follow you well into the future. The result
of a serious case of frostbite is you'll either stop climbing in cold weather or
you'll buy double boots after the first incident. My suggestion is buy the
double boots up-front and save yourself the worry and pain.



With all the
new climbers able to get out and crag climb long before they jump on difficult
alpine climbs single boots are the norm. The single boots generally climb better
and are cheaper. The same single boots are generally over kill for most things,
including Rainier in summer. So, of course we all want to use those same single
boots...that aren't cheap either....all winter and on every climb.



A good
percentage of the time you'll get away with it. In Canada these days most
climbers won't go out if the temps drop below -15C. That is up from the old norm
of -30C as the temps we generally called it off. One of the reasons is most
boots are not comfortable climbing below -15C unless they are double
boots.





Galiber Makalu dbl boots, late
'70s.











The other important reason to
invest in double boots is the amount of time you can comfortably spend out in a
cold, harsh environment. No they aren't fun to walk in or climb difficult mixed
terrain in. But both can be done adroitly with a little practice. You might find
they climb ice better than your single boots in fact. On moderate, long, ice
routes, most will appreciate the added support and calf relief of a good double
boot. The most important reason to look at a double boot is the ability to keep
the liners unthawed and warm over night and if required dry the inner out in
your sleeping bag. If things really go to shit and you have an open bivy the
fastest way to thrash your feet is to be laced into a tight pair of single
boots. Better yet on a open bivy you can loosen a dbl boot a bit, gain some
warmth usually by doing so, and still keep your 'pons bolted on the boot and not
worry about loosing gear. It is a big advantage if actually required. Getting your steel crampons off your boots or better yet your boots off your feet is alwasy a better and warmer over all option.



The advantages of a
double boot are significant to keeping your toes and feet in good health. The
down side is first the expense, and then the ability to climb difficult ground
in them. That can be over come with time, by climbing more in your dblboots. Lastly the bulk
and weight. The newest boots are getting better. The Scarpa 6000 and La Sportiva Spantik are bothwarm, light and climb well.Worth the added effort to climb in doubles unless you feel like the risk of
damaged feet is lower than I do.





On frozen feet after an open bivy at
13,800 in Nov.



Some will wonder about the Batura and Phantom
Guide style of boots (single boots with attached "supergators") as a less expensive
(if $500+ is less expensive) option to a true double boot. This style of boot
has two design features that limit their use in similar conditions. They are
both very difficult to dry out and keep unthawed on over night or longer trips.
And the ankles are generally a lot softer and more flexible than a true double
boot. So you lose the extra ankle and calf support as well. My take having used
a Batura for a few years is they are good one day boots on cold days but I would
never take them out over night intentionally. Each style of boot has a place.
Just don't trust the advertising to help you decide when and what is right for
you.



Times haven't changed much. Good (read winter technical boot) double
boots would/do cost a lot more than a good (read winter technical boot) pair of
single boots. That changed for 20 plus years as plastic double boots dominated
the market place. No matter your skill or experience level plastic double boots
were common on almost every mountaineer's feet. And for good reason..they would
keep your feet warm and dry in just about any condition...some times too warm.
For years you could easily assume that anyone who did technical ice climbing or
went out in winter would own a pair of plastic double boots.



Not so today.
And because of it I am seeing and hearing of frost bite injuries again outside
of the greater ranges....which had been, until just very recently, a thing of
the past.

One of my litmus tests for winter climbing partners, 30 years ago
and again now is, "do they own double boots?" It doesn't mean that you use
double boots on every winter climb.

But if they do, I can generally count on
the fact they take their own survival and climbing seriously. That is usually
because of hard won experience in really cold weather conditions. So I can worry
less about them getting a cold injury and both of us staying healthy on our
adventures. And just as often the owner of a pair of double boots is likely to
value his partner more than some one with less experience would. Surprised? You
shouldn't be. It is all in the details.



If you plan to go BIG and go
LIGHT....the place not to short yourself on gear is your boots...go BIG there
first!



More on the end result of "minor" frostbite.



http://www.summitpost.org/frostbite/856321















A pair of Herman Buhl's cold
weather boots.



By comparison a light weight double boot for their time. Something the first Kolflachs were. And the recent TLT5 hinted at prior to the full blown ski boot with the introduction of TLT6.



The climbing world still waits for the super light technical double boot to catch up with themodern technology available.





Hermann Buhl (September 21,
1924 – June 27, 1957) is considered one of the best post-World War II Austrian
climbers and one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly
innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing. His accomplishments
include:



1953 First ascent of Nanga Parbat, 8,126 metres (26,660 ft)
(solo and without bottled oxygen).

1957 First ascent of Broad Peak, 8,051
metres (26,414 ft).

Before his successful Nanga Parbat expedition, 31 people
had died trying to make the first ascent.



Buhl is the only mountaineer to
have made the first ascent of an eight-thousander solo. Just a few weeks after
the successful first ascent of Broad Peak (with Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus
Schmuck), Buhl and Kurt Diemberger made an attempt on nearby, unclimbed
Chogolisa peak (7654 m) in alpine style. Buhl died when he fell through a
cornice on the southeast ridge near the summit of Chogolisa. His body was never
found.



"Buhl was very lucky on Nanga Parbat, escaping with just a
few frostbitten toes. This story reflects Buhl's style of climbing; totally
focused and by taking enormous risks he often succeeded where others
failed."



Buhl on Nanga Parbat 1953









http://www.summitpost.org/article/173032/Hermann-Buhl-1924-1957-.html

A (Pashley) Penny for Your Thoughts

The Pashley Pennyis the companion model to the Parabike I wrote about earlier. This unusual bicycle looks vaguely old-fashioned, but unlike the Parabike it is not based on a specific vintage design. Part cruiser, part mixte and part mountain bike, its uniqueness is enhanced by eccentricities such as the split curved downtubes. The Penny defies classification, and this seems to be how the manufacturer intends it - explaining that the bike "provides the perfect excuse to experience more rural rides."





While the Parabike's aesthetic is defined by the continuous curvature of its top set of twin stays, from head tube to rear dropouts, in the Penny the curve is interrupted and inverted. This difference is so visually dominant that it overshadows the structural similarities between the two bikes. The Penny also lacks the military/historical somberness of the Parabike, coming across as more light-hearted.






Made of cro-moly steel, the Penny is handbrazed and powdercoated in Stratford-upon-Avon in England, like all Pashley bicycles. It is fairly lightweight for its category of bikes, coming in at under 30lb.





Like the Parabike, the Penny is built for 26" wheels and fitted with 26 x 1.75" Schwalbe Marathon tires.Colour-matched fenders and chainguard are included.







Components include a 5-speed Sturmey Archer hub, hand-operated hub brakes front and rear, a Brooks B67S saddle, a Stronglight crankset, non-slip platform pedals, rubbery "faux cork" grips, and a large bell.Unlike the Parabike, the Penny is set up with straight, rather than swept back, handlebars.






Standing over the bicycle for the first time, I was overwhelmed by all the flowy slender tubes; it was a bit like standing over a swaying rope bridge. Not that the tubes sway. It's the form and the repetition that give that impression of movement. A unique design to be sure.






One thing I had wondered about when seeing pictures of the Penny, was whether the stepover was low enough to be practical. Unlike a traditional mixte, the twin parallel stays here don't extend all the way down to the rear dropouts, but connect to the upper seat stays - which places them rather high. However, this is compensated for by their downward sweep. When mounting the bike, the stepover height resembles that of a typical mixte.






Riding the Penny, my first impression was that it felt too small for me (I am just under 5'7"). My test riding partner agreed that the Penny's "cockpit," even with the straight handlebars, felt smaller than the Parabike's. Later I looked up the sizes of the two bikes and was surprised to see them described as the same: 19" (48cm). Of course this measurement refers to the seat tube length, and it's possible that the Penny's virtual top tube is shorter than the Parabike's. Regrettably, I did not measure the bikes and have not been able to source geometry charts. But the good news is that the Penny will work well for smaller riders and those with shorter torsos.




Putting the fit issue aside, the ride quality and handling of the Penny felt very similar to that of the Parabike, which I liked very much: maneuverable, extremely cushy over bumps, mountain-bikey but with a relaxed cruiserish element to it.These are entirely different bikes from Pashley's Roadster and Princess line.Personally, I prefer the way the Penny and Parabike ride to the classic Princess. Of course the looks are a matter of taste.






One advantage of the Penny over the Parabike, is that - to my eye at least - its aesthetics do not conflict with a standard rear rack. So turning it into a practical city bike would be fairly simple. Unfortunately, dynamo lighting is not included. Also not included are the waterbottle cage mounts that I noticed on the Parabike. Step-through frame designs often do not lend themselves to this, and it's too bad. Finally, I am not sure why the Penny was set up with straight handlebars rather than swept-back bars - I suspect that much of this bike's target market would find the the latter more comfortable.





In their description of the Penny, Pashley suggests that this bike is meant to move effortlessly between town and country. I can see that. Provided that it's a fairly flat area, this bike could feel equally enjoyable to ride through meadows and forests, on cobblestones and on busy city streets, for shorter and longer distances. It is a nice combination of comfortable, maneuverable, and intuitive to handle. The durable powdercoat and the enclosed brakes and gears allow outdoor storage and make this bike a good choice for winter and inclement weather conditions. If the unique look of the Penny appeals to you, the bike is worth taking seriously.






The Pashley Penny is available in "willow green" (shown here) or "dusk blue" - a dusty indigo. Current retail price is $1,195. Both the Parabike and Penny are available for test rides at Harris Cyclery in West Newton, MA. Many thanks to them for setting up these demo bikes.

Firefighter

The firefighter is probably the largest of the wooden sculptures in the little park at the Pueblo Montano Trailhead. The sculptures were made byMark Chavez, who was one of the firefighters who fought the Albuquerque Bosque Fire of ... I have seen a lot of things made from wood using chainsaws (mostly bears) but the sculptures in the park are really unique. The tell the story of the fire, and the wildlife that live in the Bosque. The Bosque is the nature trails and native lands that border the Rio Grande River where it runs through Albuquerque, NM. During the fire many of the beautiful cottonwood trees along this section of the river were killed. Instead of cutting down the dead trees to use them as firewood or hauling them to the dump Mark Chavez turned these tree stumps into fanstatic sculptures. More information at http://www.examiner.com/x-1972-Albuquerque-Travel-Examiner~y..m9d10-Hidden-Albuquerque-Pueblo-Montano-park-and-the-wood-carvings-of-Mark-Chavez

Volcano's Out

Climbing rangers have recently been spotted in the park. Check back soon for some updates related to climbing, skiing, and park access. Hope everyone had a good winter!

Pulling the Trigger vs Doing the Twist: Thoughts on 3-Speed Gear Shifters

On bicycles with internally geared hubs, we typically see two types of gear shifters. The trigger shifter (pictured above) is a small gadget with a lever that is moved up and down. Today, this style of shifter usually accompanies Sturmey Archer hubs (though in Europe I have seen some lesser known models as well).



The twist shifter (pictured above) is a plastic and rubber enclosure that is built into the handlebar grip itself. To switch gears, you grab the rubber part and twist forward or backward. This style of shifter usually accompaniesShimanohubs.



After using both types of shifters on various bicycles I've owned to more or less the same extent, I have developed a strong preference for trigger shifters. When I tell people this, they tend to assume it has to do with "vintage aesthetics" - but actually, it has to do with comfort. A trigger shifter takes up very little space on the handlebars, as it is attached with a narrow bracket. This means that the shifter does not interfere with the gripping area, and allows me to install full-length grips on the handlebars.



By contrast, having a twist shifter installed effectively cuts your gripping area in half. Notice that the right handlebar grip on the Bella Ciao above is shorter than the left grip - necessary in order to make room for the shifter. Granted, you can also keep your right hand on the rubber portion of the shifter itself - but it's not very comfortable, especially as there is a tactile break between where the real grip ends and the shifter begins.



But why is it important how long your grips are, as long as you are able to fit your hands on them? The reason, is that having room to move your hands around on the handlebars, even a little, can be essential for hand comfort - especially on long rides. If you ride your bicycle for just a couple of miles or so at a time, then you might not get the urge to move your hands around. But the longer your ride is, the more fatigued your hands will get if you keep them in the same position. Some people are more sensitive to this than others, and those who have nerve damage in their hands (like yours truly) are particularly prone to it. The feeling can range from numbness, to "pins and needles" to a more severe sensation of electric current running through the hand. It is not good to experience this problem, and having room on the handlebars to move your hands around allows you to avoid it. Long gripscan also help you switch between a more relaxed and a more aggressive position on your bike (by holding the grips further forward or further backward) - giving you some added control over speed.



Getting back to shifter styles, here is my right hand on the shortened grip that is integrated with the twist shifter on my Bella Ciao. As you can see, my hand covers the entire grip, with no room to move around - unless I place it on the shifter itself, though even then it is limited. And I had the same problem with this shifter on my previously-owned Pashley, which came with the 7-speed Shimano hub I innocently selected.



On the other hand, here is my hand on the grip I installed on my Gazelle. As you can see, there is room for another handful - which is only possible because of the trigger shifter.



I will note that one benefit of the twist shifter, is that it is more integrated with your hand position - which can be a plus if you switch gears very frequently. But on bicycles with internally geared hubs - especially 3-speeds - I have found that I tend to stay in one "ideal" gear most of the time, switching to a lower gear only when going uphill, and switching to a higher gear only when cycling very fast or downhill. Having to reach with my finger to pull the trigger has not caused me any inconvenience in comparison to using the twist shifter. Your experience, of course, may differ.



While I am not suggesting that everybody ought to run out and demand trigger shifters with their 3-speed bicycles, I am hoping that this comparison will provide some food for thought to those who are getting a new bike, or deciding which hub to select with a new build. I would also like to ask whether anybody knows where I can find a trigger shifter that is compatible with a 3-speed Shimano Nexus hub? Even if it involves rigging something up with a "thumbie" derailleur-style shifter, I am up for it. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Lyndon Cemetery

Lyndon Cemetery is located on the south side of 245th street, about a mile west of U.S. 75 and a mile north of the town of Lyndon in Valley Brook Township, Osage County, Kansas. The first time I visited the gravesite of my 3rd Great Grandparents, Lysander and Lydia Robison Joslin, was in the summer of 1986. Their marker is the first tall one, left of center in the picture below, which is looking towards the south and a little east, taken at about 9:30 a.m. I didn't know where their marker was located then but when I got out of the car and started walking, I went straight to their stone. That was the first time something like that had happened to me and it was a mystical experience. I had no trouble finding their marker this time either.



The cemetery has grown considerably since 1986. The view below was taken about 11 a.m. and is from the south side of the center road, looking north-northeast and shows about 1/3 of the cemetery. Lysander and Lydia's stone is a bit north of the clump of trees in the center of the picture.



When I was there in 1986, Lydia's inscription on the east side of the gravestone was difficult to read. That hasn't changed. However, it is amazing what a little water, a soft bristle brush, a towel and the right light will do. . .



1. The inscription before cleaning.
2. Using a little water and the soft bristle brush helps brings out the inscription.
3. With a little more water and using a towel. The green color comes from the lichen and moss that was growing on the stone. As I continued to clean the stone with water and a towel and remove the green stuff, the stone actually became more difficult to read again.

The inscription reads "LYDIA R. / Wife of / LYSANDER P. / JOSLIN / Died / Jan. 25, 1899 / AGED 73 YS 3 M / 15 D"



The inscription for Lysander is on the west side of the stone. It reads " LYSANDER P. / JOSLIN / Died / May 14, 1899 / AGED / 74 YS 13 D." I was waiting for the sun to move so the lighting would be better but I had forgotten to charge the camera battery the previous night, so this is the best shot I got of his inscription.

I spent about two hours at the cemetery listening to the wind blowing through the trees and across the hilly plains. And enjoying the sunshine. As time went by, the clouds moved in and the good light was lost. And that is when I decided it was time to come on home.

Photographs © .. Rebeckah R. Wiseman (taken November 28th)

Other posts in this series on my trip to Missouri and Kansas:

• On the Road
• Still on the Road...
• Baxter Springs
• I'm not in Kansas anymore!
• Past its Prime (An Old Schoolhouse in Kansas)

A Day with Mike Law

When I first started buying Rock magazine, probably back in '89, like most of you I was in awe of all the heroiccharacters. Bold, competent, even handsome. But the one who most summed up that period , for me, was Mike Law. AKA The Claw.



I was guiding a group along the Grand Canyon track in the Blue Mountains one day in the early Nineties and recognised Mike, from magazine pictures,coming the other way. I couldn't believe my luck. A real rock star, live, in person. So naturally I stopped him, and surprisingly he gave me all the time I wanted, chatting about stuff, you know, stuff. And even suggesting I come and climb at the gym where he worked. I don't know where my group got to. I caught them up some time later.

But, in my mind,I came away with an invitation to climb with Mike Law. The Claw!



I never did.



Till one day, recently on a dash trip to the Bluies with Lee,we met again. Vector: Neil Monteith.





That's me sort of looking smug mixing it up with the big boys.



I was taken as much by Mike's story telling as his climbing. He's like a TV that's always on exactlythe right channel, the imagery is rich, and only just believable.



So I can scarcely believe all the amazing people I've been hangin with lately. The latest buzz was a day at my local crags with Mike.



Starting with breakfast.



We told storieswhile Sandraroasted coffee from our tree, free range, low food miles, organic, but saddly,tainted with child labour. Grandson Judd helps pick it.






We had chili eggs on Turkish bread. Fav Saturday morning food.






Then out to the crags. Starting at Tinbeerwah. Yes, I took the Legend of The Claw to the Slabs of Tinbeerwah. What of it? It was fun. I left my bolt plates at work, so we used wires.

How embarrassment?

Then we dropped in at my work for lunch - Nachos and chocolate cake - and down the highway to Mt. Tibrogargan.

My human guide book, Lee was away in Kentucky, so I sent him a message. What to do with Mike?

"Remains of the Day" 5 pitch, mixed.



So here's Mike climbing past the notice declaring the route closed for Falcon Nesting.

Settle down climbers, don't get your nuts in a knot,the date on ithad expired. Mike led first. We swung leads.







I snapped a couple of shots along the way, on his following pitches.

























The Claw has been credited with the dubious honor of theMastery of "Jiggery Pokery" in climbing.

Here he carefully disguises a kneebar from the camera, but this grasshoppersees all.




"Remains of the Day"

So named when Gareth and Ross found human remains on their first ascent. Funny guys.





I look forward to climbing again with him. And Sandra and I wishMike and Vanessa the most joy and happiness on their next, most extreme, unpredictable adventure they will ever undertake.





Call anytime, day or night,if you need help with that one Mike.



jj